Two antique-cut diamonds

Stone Sourcing & Development

A short history of chasing light.

We work two ways. Some stones are our own cuts: mapped in-house, hand-cut by our lapidarist partners. Others we source: spectacular cuts, antiques, stones we find and can't leave behind. Everything lab-origin is custom cut. Every stone we touch descends from this lineage:

Replica of the Koh-i-Noor diamond

Diamonds surface in Golconda. For nearly two thousand years, India is the world's only source. Stones are worn close to their natural form.

Replica of the Koh-i-Noor, the legendary Golconda diamond.

Ancient gold ring with rough octahedral diamonds

European cutters polish the diamond's natural faces and stop there. The stone keeps the shape it grew in.

Rough octahedral diamonds in an eleventh- to thirteenth-century ring from Pakistan or Afghanistan. Benjamin Zucker Family Collection.

Ancient gold ring with table-cut diamond

Someone slices the top off the octahedron. The first flat facet. Light gets a window.

Les Enluminures table-cut diamond ring, c. 1600.

Rose cut diamonds

Antwerp. A dome of triangular facets over a flat base, like a rosebud. Made for candlelight. It glows instead of flashing.

Tiara with old-cut diamonds, London 1840-42

Hand-cut, one of one, every time. High crown, small table, open culet. Big lazy flashes of fire. No two alike.

Tiara, London, 1840โ€“42. Victoria and Albert Museum.

Rounder and more even. Better tools, same intention. The last cut before mathematics took over.

Diagram of the 58-facet modern brilliant

A young engineer publishes the mathematics of brilliance. Fifty-eight facets arranged for maximum light return. The modern brilliant is born.

Cut grading turns beauty into numbers. The trade starts cutting for weight retention and lab scores. Technically perfect. Perfectly uniform.

Sital Jansson, today

We source exceptional and rare natural stones, custom cut our diamonds, and develop our own cuts in-house.